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MKIII Front Brake installation


When you receive your kit open it to inspect the contents of the kit.

In the inside the main box you should find two boxes, inside the top
box you should have 3 Wilwood boxes, 2 Caliper boxes and 1 Brake Pad
box. Each caliper box contains a complete set of left components or right components.
The left caliper bracket is packaged with the left caliper. The right caliper bracket is packaged with the right caliper.

Inside each Caliper box should be a Caliper a Brake line, and a
Caliper bracket. Attached to each Brake line should be the Brake line
Adapter, and a Brake line Clamp. Attached to each Caliper Adapter
Bracket should be all the required fasteners to attach the caliper
bracket to the Spindle/Up-right and all the fasteners to attach the
calipers to the bracket.

All of the fasteners installed on the caliper
bracket are installed in the sequence they will be installed on the

Here are all the parts for the complete front 13 inch Wilwood front
brake kit. 

Some of the unique tools you will need are:

10mm line-wrench for the factory brake line.

3/8 allen wrench

10mm allen wrench

1/4 open end wrench for bleeding the brakes

18-24 inches of 3/16 (or 4mm) inside diameter clear plastic line.

Turkey Baster (dollar store is a great place) you will be throwing this away

One of the not so obvious first orders of business is to flush all of the brake fluid.  The main reason is, to get the old fluid out before the new calipers are installed, is to flush any potential debris that could be in the existing (older) brake lines, into the old calipers.  You should bleed the rear brakes first, start with the furthest caliper from the master cylinder.  Bleed until you see clear fresh fluid.  Continue until you finish at the shortest brake line.
  After all the wheels are off, the first order of business, is to pop the hood and use that turkey baster and suck out the old brake fluid.  Once you remove enough fluid, you can remove the filter cup from the master cylinder reservoir and get the final amount of dirty old fluid out of the bottom.  Use as lint free of a cloth or paper towel as you can find, to wipe the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir as clean as possible.  Make sure not to touch any of the brake calipers or the brake pedal to prevent air from accidentally getting into the brake lines.  Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid and finish flushing the entire brake system with fresh fluid.

  If you
need any assistance on where to lift from or where to place the jack
stands refer to the TSRM. If you were ever going to clean detail the
fenderwell this would be the time to do it. If you plan to detail the fenderwell area after the kit is installed I would recommend removing the caliper from the spindle and placing it in a garbage/ziplock bag and zip tieing it out of the way. Also remove the rotor and set aside.

Do not use Castrol Superclean in the purple bottle, it has a chemical that attacks open poor aluminum.Also don't use Eagle 1 mag cleaner made for open pore aluminum (like
Centerline wheels).

Once you have removed the wheels and supported the vehicle properly it should look like this.

Remove the brake from the spindle and let it hang from the brake line.  If you like you can try to break the fitting loose at the top where it attaches to the hardline on the body.  If you have rust parts and it proves difficult, now is a good time to put some penetrating oil on the threads of the fitting and on the hardline itself hoping it gets down in between where the line has to rotate on the hardline once it is loosened.  Synthetic ATF in a Zoom spout oiler works great to help you get lube on the threads and tube interface and keep the hex nut itself dry.  believe it or not, no lube on the wrench interface with the hex nut is usually the difference between rounding the nut off and successfully breaking it loose.

You won't completely disconnect the brake line until you have almost all of the
parts installed on each corner you are replacing.

Remove the front rotor hat from the spindle, notice the 2 threaded
holes on the stock rotor hat these are used to help remove the rotor from the hub.
Refer to the TSRM if your not familiar with this procedure.


Once the rotor and caliper have been removed you have some cleaning to do.

Use a wire brush or any means possible to remove any rust or scale
from the surface that the new rotor hat will mount to. This cleaning
is critical to a true running rotor. I use a wire brush on a die



My bare hand is only holding the tool for
photographic purposes. If you don't have experience using these tools get someone that does, or pay a professional to install these brakes.

Leaving the lug nuts installed is a good way to insure you don't
damage the threads during this operation.

After the mounting surface and the outside diameter of hub mounting
surface is clean it should look like this.

Remember the rotor hat is hubcentric cleaning that hub/center outside
diameter is critical to runout.


Next you will remove the rotor dust cover. There are several ways to
do this I will cover a few of them The most difficult and potentially
damaging (to the wheel bearings) is to remove the nut for the hub on
the back (in board) side of the spindle. This is the riskiest option, you risk getting dirt in the bearings, you risk damaging the threads, and you risk over or under torqueing the bearings. It is an option but I do not recommend it.

The options I DO recommend will depend on if you have ABS or not. If
you have ABS I recommend trimming only the outer dust shield off of
the dust cover assembly ( I say assembly because it is multiple pieces welded together). You can use common aviation tin snips. Make sure to finish the edges with a file to remove any sharp edges and burrs  (prime and paint as necessary). The photo below shows a non ABS spindle. Notice you can see the fasteners holding the dust cover to the spindle.
On an ABS vehicle, the ABS trigger ring obscures these fasteners and
any attempt to gain access to these fasteners using tin/aviation snips risks damaging that trigger ring.

Here is an ABS spindle after removal of the dust cover. You can trim
it right down to the outside diameter

On a non ABS vehicle I recommend loosening these fasteners and trimming a
portion of the center out so that the complete dust cover can be removed.
This will avoid tampering with a perfectly good wheel bearing assembly.

In the first photos I snip the inner ring on each side of the fasteners (to
provide clearance for the wrench to gain access to the head of the bolts).
Next I use a drift or punch to knock back the inner ring of the dust cover
(in front of the fasteners only). 11, 12


Next I loosen and remove the fasteners holding the dust cover on.

Once the dust cover is free I use the snips once again to make a big opening
in the center diameter to slide the dust cover off of the spindle.

I snip high and low, and the cover comes right off. 15,16,

Next you will need to clean and wire brush the mounting surfaces of the
Toyota caliper ears. 17,18

I recommend cleaning the whole spindle but if your pressed for time at least
make sure you clean these 3 areas. Again if your not familiar or not
comfortable using these tools please have a professional perform this
installation. This portion of the casting interferes slightly with the
installation of your new brake caliper. You will need to clearance this
portion of the casting. 19,20

The removal of material required is so slight that a basic hand file will do the trick.

Below I will show many other tools that can be used for the job.
Please, if your not comfortable with any portion of this install please have a
professional do it.

Die grinder ,21

Soft disc or flapper wheel, 22, 23

Flapper wheel on a die grinder 24

Barrel sander on a die grinder 25

Stone on a die grinder 26

Carbide burr 27

Scotch lock/quik lock sanding disc. 28

I ended up using a Die Grinder wheel 29

The die grinder is one of my favorite tools I am very comfortable with it.
Here is how it should look when your finished. You do not need to remove a ton of material as you can see. You might need to remove some of the "point"of this portion of the casting to make room for the flat washer up against the caliper. 30, 31

Test fit your parts several times to get a good idea of the minimum material
you need to remove to make the install of the calipers go smoothly.
Remember the fasteners on the caliper brackets are installed in the order
they are installed.

If you haven't removed the caliper brackets from their respective boxes they
will be installed with the proper left and right caliper. Identify the left
and right caliper brackets and place them at their respective corners. An
easy way to identify the brackets is to hold them like a pistol the bottom
hole will not have a threaded insert and the top or forwards hole will. The
threaded inserts go outboard on the vehicle. The caliper bracket in the
photo below is for the front right caliper. 32

Remove all the fasteners from one caliper bracket, except the 12mm Socket
head cap screws (or allen bolt). The metric fasteners have a silver/bright
zinc plated nut and washer. The 12 mm allen bolt head should have a flat
washer between it and the aluminum caliper bracket. This is a standard flat
washer as shown in the picture above. Notice the order of the fasteners
below. The lock washer goes against the cast Toyota caliper ear followed by the 12mm nut.

Torque these fasteners to Toyota factory specifications. It might be
necessary to hold the allen head bolt still while torqueing the inside nut.

While installing the caliper bracket apply pressure outward (radially),
notice the tip of my finger prying outward. This caliper bracket was
designed to maintain the maximum pad rotor interface with the closest
of build tolerances. 34

Below is the order the fasteners should be installed fastening the caliper
to the caliper bracket. Take care to NEVER install a split locking washer against any aluminum part. 35

Sometimes I ship the kit with a precision shim washer. If you need to shim
the caliper inboard, that washer will be installed between the caliper and
the caliper bracket. If you need to shim the caliper outboard you need to
place that shim between the caliper bracket and the Toyota caliper ears.

Next you will slide the Rotor hat on the hub. Make sure there are no dings,
imperfections, rust, or dirt in between the rotor hat and the mounting
surface. This will surely affect the lateral runout. Inspect and clean
these surfaces as necessary.

[/COLOR] The rotors are shipped with oil on them to inhibit rust, you do not
want this oil on your pads. Clean as best as possible but the rest of the
oils will burn off during the bedding process.

Make sure to install the rotors on the proper sides. A rotor is a
centrifugal pump, they can only be run one direction or they will stall. If
you run the rotors backwards it won't pump air from the hub to the wheel.
Chances are that you would only notice a problem if you were racing them but
go ahead and install them on the proper corners. The front rotors have an
arrow on the outside that makes it unmistakable. 36

With the rotor installed use 2-3 lug nuts to secure the rotor against the
hub mounting surface. This will keep the rotor true while you bleed the
brakes and make sliding the caliper over the rotor easier.

Install the brake pads in each caliper, they are the same pad in all four
positions and do not have a front/back or inboard/outboard designation.

Install the Brake line fitting (shown below) in the caliper using Teflon
tape. Take care to not let the Teflon tape overlap the installed threads
when installed "inside" the caliper. Do not torque this adapter into the
caliper until it stops. This is an NPT thread with a slight taper and is
designed to seal after approximately half of the available threads are
engaged. If you need to ask me how tight to make this fitting you should
pay a professional to install this kit. 37,38

Next you can mount the caliper on the bracket install the fasteners in the
caliper snugly, make sure the 3 lugnuts are holding the rotor to the
mounting surface. Check that there isn't any undue resistance to rotating
the rotor thru the pads. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to factory Toyota specs.

At this point, I recommend breaking the brake line loose at this location as shown, and gently re-tighten the lines again.  The photos might be confusing, but in this next photo, the other vehicle already had stainless lines, that went to the factory calipers,  Our brake lines have a clear lining on them and 2 retainers to go through the existing brake line locations.

Again if you need to ask how this is done, you
should pay a professional to install this kit. Notice that if you remove the
factory Toyota cir clips (e clips) from the factory brake line, you can
install them in the new brake line to secure it in the factory location. 
maintain the stock brake line routing,  To position the brake lines properly, the rubber retainer on each side of each bulkhead retainer is designed to move.  Give a good solid yank on the brake line and the rubber retainers will slide the length of the clear lining on the brake line to the position desired.

39, 40

I have included a brake line retainer if you want to maintain the factory  brake line routing shown in the photo below. You can not use this routing and attach directly to the hardline.
In either case you NEED to install 2 of the factory cir clips as shown in
the photo above on the left. 42

Once the brake lines are installed make sure to cycle the steering full left and full right to make sure the brake lines do not touch anything other than the retainer clips they are designed to touch.  A good rule of thumb is to make sure the brake line naturally rests at least 3/4 of an inch (19mm) from anything else in a horizontal plane, and over an inch (25mm) in the vertical plane. 

The only other unique thing about
bleeding these calipers is the fact that there are 2 channels per caliper.

Bleed the inboard channel first. Then bleed the outboard channel, then
repeat one more time. I use a clear piece of vinyl/nylon hose (easy to find
at a hardware store) with an inside diameter that will fit snugly on the bleeder
and route it into an empty clear container.


Hold your 1/4 inch wrench half way up with 3 fingers. It is very easy to
over-torque or break this bleeder treat it gently!!!.

Once you are confident you have all of the brakes completely bled, install
your wheels and test the brake pedal before you roll 1 foot. If the pedal
height or firmness is inconsistent, remove the wheels and look for leaks.

Treat the first test drive with the utmost care. Make sure the brakes work
satisfactorily before you perform the bedding procedure.

After the first 100-200 miles remove the wheels and check all fittings for
leaks and check all fasteners for signs of loosening, or improper torque.

Our standard Wilwood rotors are cast iron and are E-coated. 

If you installed natural uncoated rotors, after the bed in procedure it is common to see a ring of oil (on the inside of the wheel and caliper bridge).  These oils are/were inside the cooling fins.  When this oil is heated it will be slung out of the
rotor vents. This is normal and will wash off with soap and water.

If you suspect you have a mounting issue, please do not remove the rotors from the rotor hats unless you have eliminated every other possible location that could generate runout issues.

Thank you again for your interest in our products. Please contact us if you
have any problems, or questions about the installation and use of our products.

[email protected]


Andrew Zimmerle